How To Install Irrigation: Pipes and Fittings

Step 1: Lay Out a Plan for the Irrigation System

Determine any potential obstacles -- such as trees -- that may block sprinkler patterns, as well as curves in the landscape design that might require special attention. Carefully measure property boundaries and record the numbers on a diagram of the layout. Use graph paper for the plan to allow the irrigation system to be drawn to scale and accurately plotted. Draw in the street, driveway, sidewalk, and house, as well as landscape elements such as flowerbeds, trees, etc.

Step 2: Pick the Best Irrigation System

Once the property layout is on paper, it's time to evaluate the various system components and sprinkler heads available and determine the best way to pull it all together. To start this process, learn the basic elements of an irrigation system and their respective features: Polyethylene pipe (Image 1) is the recommended choice for most irrigation systems. Flexible, lightweight, and highly durable, it's often referred to simply as "poly" (pronounced "polly"). While PVC pipe (Image 2) is probably more familiar to most people than poly pipe, it's generally not the best choice for irrigation systems. Its rigid composition and lack of flexibility can make it difficult to work with, especially in applications where curves and corners require a pliable material like poly. (The importance of flexibility will be evident in the upcoming installation.)

Step 3: Learn About the Installation Materials

Next, learn about the basic fittings used for a typical system assembly. Like the flexible tubing, these components are molded from polyethylene. Featured pieces include: The straight coupler (Image 1). This fitting is used to connect two pieces of pipe that meet at a certain point or to extend a length of pipe that's too short to reach the necessary area. The poly plug (Image 2). Shaped, appropriately, like a stop sign, the poly plug is used at the end of a pipe length to stop water at a designated point. The elbow coupler (Image 3). This piece is sometimes referred to simply as a "90", since it creates a 90-degree angle in a system of pipes. In short, it's used to change the direction of the water, allowing the system to turn a corner. The T-coupler (Image 4). This fitting is designed to join together three pipes at one intersection, either coming off a main line or leading to a valve. To control the release of the water into the pipes, electronic valves (Image 5) are integrated into the system.

Step 4: Create a Mock-Up

To illustrate how the valves will work with the pipes, create a T-formation mock-up of a section (Image 1), and connect with a T-coupler fitting. (The top pipe of the "T" sample represents the main line.) Coils of wire on top of each valve (Image 2) -- known as solenoids -- will connect them to the individual zones. Finally, a programmed clock will be wired to all valves in the system, activating them at the appropriate, pre-set times. Once signaled by the clock, each valve will open, letting water into its corresponding zone. In turn, the water will prompt the sprinkler heads to pop up and begin spraying their designated areas.

How to Build a Trellis Arbor and Gate

Step 1: Remove the Fence Section


Instead of removing individual boards from the fence to accommodate the trellis, use mallets and hammers to knock the boards away from the posts and remove them in sections. Use mallets and hammers to remove individual boards, keeping them as intact as possible so they can be reused. Remove the posts that are in the way; the team used a utility loader with a bucket attachment to remove the posts and the concrete holding them in place.

Step 2: Dry-Fit the Trellis Pieces

The arbor and gate kit includes all of the pieces already cut to size. Check the parts against the instructions and dry-fit the pieces to make sure everything is included and fits properly. Use clamps to help hold the pieces in place for the dry-fit.

Step 3: Assemble the Trellis Top

Position the supports for the eave or top of the trellis on the ground. Assemble the eave by attaching the crosspieces; make sure to follow the instructions and use any aids provided, such as spacer blocks to make sure pieces are properly positioned. Attach the pieces with screws, countersinking the screw heads.

Step 4: Hide the Screw Heads

Apply a dab of wood glue in each screw countersinks and insert a wood peg in the hole to hide the screw head. Place a small block of wood over the peg and tap it with a hammer to seat the peg in the hole without denting the wood. Wipe away any excess glue and sand the peg flush with the wood. Repeat for all of the screw holes.

Step 5: Attach the Trellis Panels

Follow the manufacturer's instructions to fit the panels together. Run a bead of wood glue along the edge of each piece and press together, reinforcing with countersunk stainless steel screws. Fill the screw holes with wooden pegs.

Step 6: Assemble the Trellis

Move the trellis into its final position and make sure it's level. Use blocks of wood under the posts as needed to level the unit. For this project, the team dug a trench under one side of the trellis and braced the wood with a 4x4. Dry-fit the eave on top of the trellis, then attach it with wood glue and stainless steel screws.

Step 7: Attach the Gate

Use hinges to attach the gate to the trellis. Make sure the trellis is level and plumb so the gate swings properly.

Step 8: Install the New Posts and Fence Sections

Determine the position for the new posts so that they line up with the fence and will support the arbor trellis. Dig new post holes, place the new posts in the holes and check for plumb and level. Add concrete to the holes to hold the posts in place. Attach stringers from the existing fence to the new posts. Cut the fence boards as needed for an attractive transition from the fence to the arbor trellis and attach the boards to the stringers.

How to Maintain a Healthy, Weed-Free Lawn

Step 1: Remove Existing Weeds


A few weeds are inevitable in most lawns. Pull weeds, roots and all, by hand or with a handheld weeder (three good types are: fishtail, leverage or Japanese) or hoe (either a garden or stirrup hoe will work). If the weeds are out of control, use an herbicide such as glyphosate for direct application to weeds or apply a weed-and-feed product to the entire lawn; follow the manufacturer's recommended application instructions. Be aware that these products are effective only when the weeds are properly identified and the product is applied at the right time of year.

Step 2: Dethatch the Lawn

Thatch, or the matted accumulation of organic debris between grass blades and roots, can cause dead patches in turf and open spaces for weeds to grow. Inspect the lawn for a one-inch layer of thatch. Use a thatching rake or power dethatcher to remove thatch. Afterwards, the lawn will look terrible, but it'll recover in about three to four weeks.

Step 3: Aerate the Lawn

Inspect turf for compaction problems. Dig a square-foot section of the lawn and examine the roots. If the roots don't extend deeper than 2 inches, then the lawn needs to be aerated. Water the lawn one to two days prior to aeration. Run a rented core aerator over the lawn once. Apply compost or sand over the aerated lawn.

Step 4: Apply Grass Seed to Bare Spots

In early spring or early fall, overseed a lawn with cool-season grass seed such as rye, fescue or Kentucky bluegrass, and overseed a warm-season lawn with Bermuda or Zoysia grass in early summer. For an even application of seed over the lawn, use a broadcast seed spreader. Water the seed to help it establish.

Step 5: Mow Grass Appropriately

A healthy lawn is denser and better able to resist weeds than a neglected one. Don't scalp the lawn; remove only about one-third off the top of the grass. Set the height of the mower deck so that the grass is about 2-1/2 to 3 inches tall. If the grass is taller, it helps to shade out weed seeds and prevent them from germinating. Alternate your mowing pattern by mowing at a 45- or 90-degree angle from your last mowing direction. This helps prevent soil compaction and also helps grass grow upright. Keep mower blades sharp.

Step 6: Water and Feed Grass

Provide adequate moisture to the grass, especially during periods of heat and drought. Apply turf fertilizer periodically throughout the year; follow the manufacturer's instructions.