How to Install an Easy Heat Floor

Step 1: Dry Fit the Mat

NOTE: Electrical inspection may be required before, during and/or after installation of the Easy Heat mat. Contact your local electrical inspection authority for more information.

After electrical installation is complete, confirm that the mat you have selected is suitable by laying it onto the floor (with the mesh side on the floor) and fitting it into the area to be heated.

If you are not working with a rectangular-shaped floor, you can cut the mesh and support strands to configure the mat to the appropriate shape.
DO NOT CUT THE HEATING CABLE!
Do not space heating cable further apart than recommended, as the floor will not warm to a comfortable temperature in these areas.

TIP: You only need to lay the mat in areas where you will stand; heat will spread throughout the floor.

Step 2: Install Thermostat Sensor

If a floor-sensing thermostat will be used to control the system, install the thermostat sensor wire to ensure it is embedded in the mortar.

Step 3: Attach Mat to Subfloor

With a staple gun, staple down the mat to the subfloor. Be sure to not staple through any of the electrical cords.

Step 4: Apply Mortar and Set Tiles

Cover the complete mat with a uniform scratch coat of mortar that is level with the heating cables. Scratch coat should be level and extend over the entire floor area, including areas not being warmed. The mat strands can be partially exposed. Once the scratch coat is dry, set the tiles in the usual manner.

How to Create a Fabric Headboard

Step 1: Mark and Drill the Plywood


Mark the center point of the plywood and use a yardstick to draw a line across the diagonal with a pencil. Then draw an intersecting diagonal and with a pencil mark the point where the two lines meet . Maintaining the diagonal pattern, mark the entire surface with spots for more buttons, 12" apart. Put on safety glasses. Then use a power drill with a medium bit to drill holes through all the pencil-marked spots.

Step 2: Arrange the Fabric and Batting

Pick a piece of upholstery-weight fabric that is 6" or so longer than the piece of plywood on all sides. Lay it on a sturdy work surface, with the side you want to show facing down. Cut batting a few inches longer than the piece of plywood on all sides. Place it on top of the face-down fabric. Top it with a same-size piece of thin batting foam. Center the drilled plywood on top of the three layers of material -- fabric, batting and batting foam.

Step 3: Attach the Fabric to the Plywood

Pull the foam, batting and material snugly over each corner of the wood and staple it. Do the same to cover the hard edges on the sides of the board.

Step 4: Sew the Buttons Onto the Headboard

Select large buttons, possibly ceramic or antique glass. Secure them to the fabric-covered board with a large needle and upholstery thread: start by threading the needle through the drilled hole on the uncovered side of the plywood. To get the buttons secured tightly on the plywood, lay a finish nail on its side over each of the drilled holes on the back of the plywood. Once you've finished sewing each button, tie the ends to the finish nail. If you want a tufted look, with the buttons recessed in the fabric, twist the nail several times clockwise. This will create tension in the upholstery thread that will pull the button into the cushion-backed fabric.

Step 5: Hang the Headboard

Hang the headboard with mirror hangers equidistant from the center of the headboard. Use the shortest screws that come with the kit -- you don't want the headboard to tilt out from the wall and hit people on the head. Use a level and an anchor if you can't find or don't have a wall stud available.

How to Tile a Kitchen Backsplash

Step 1: Prepare the Substrate

Ensure that the substrate is sound and ready for tiling by screwing, nailing or use construction adhesive to secure drywall, cement board, plywood or other type of backing. Next, tape, plaster, or “mud” the seams on the surface to be tiled for smooth transitions. This is especially important when using sheet tiles of smaller dimensions. Finally, be sure the surface is free of all dust, oils or residues to guarantee a strong adhesive bond.

Step 2: Determine Best Location to Start Tiling

Measure and scope the installation site to determine best location to start tiling. The idea is to hide cuts in corners and under cabinets and leave the full tiles in areas that draw the most attention. You can do this by either drawing level lines or snapping chalk box lines to be used as guidelines, or by relying on the level surface provided by the cabinets or countertops as a guide.

Step 3: Apply Mortar

Begin spreading the glue (mastic) or mortar with the flat side of the trowel to ensure good adhesion.

Next, flip the trowel over to the notched side and double back over the glued area to remove excess adhesive. The notches create a uniform application, which will be flattened as the tile is laid and pressed onto the wall. The size of the trowel’s notches should be determined by the thickness of the tile used. Larger tiles can use a wider notch, but very small tiles should stick with tight notches. The mastic should be applied thoroughly to the wall, but take care not to apply it too thickly, or it will squeeze out between the tiles and may not fully dry.

Step 4: Install Tiles

Begin installing the first tile/sheet by working off of the countertop surface. This will ensure a level installation because the cabinet/countertop surface will have already been leveled during installation. It also allows cut tiles to be hidden under the upper cabinets, where they will remain out of sight.

Step 5: Make Cuts

A dry cutter, wetsaw and/or tile nippers may be used to make cuts to fit around electrical boxes, cabinets or mosaic inlays. Tile saws, while expensive, can be rented at many hardware and tool rental locations for $45 to 70 per day, and they will save you a lot of time and aggrevation in the long run.

How to Grow Pepper Plants

Step 1: Purchase Plants

Garden stores sell pepper plants in a wide variety of colors. Pepper plants are best started from transplants rather than from seed. Look for seedlings that have thicker stems and that aren't flowering yet. It is better for the pepper plant to spend its energy growing roots rather than fruit in its earliest stages.

Step 2: Prepare Site

Pepper plants like hot and sunny weather, but the fruits themselves need to be shaded. Choose a location that gets full morning sun, but less afternoon light as the sun can slip under the foliage and scald the ripening fruit. Use a pitchfork to turn the soil and work in some compost or slow-release 10-10-10 fertilizer.

Step 3: Plant Peppers

Well after the fear of frost has passed, place plants in the ground at the same level they were in the pot. Space plants and rows about a foot and a half apart. Water well. Mark the plants with garden markers. Place a layer of plastic mulch around the plants to help conserve moisture, provide warmth, and prevent the spread of soil-borne diseases.

Step 4: Feed and Water

Peppers should receive about an inch of water every week. Fertilize or compost when plants reach half size, and again when they begin setting fruit. If plastic mulch was not used, place a thick layer of mulch around the plants to prevent weeds and retain moisture.

Step 5: Harvest Peppers

Peppers can be harvested and eaten at any stage, though green peppers are normally left on the plants until fully grown. Colored peppers can be eaten green or left on the plant until their colors fully develop. Ripe peppers will easily separate from the plant, but it is a good idea to use pruning shears to remove immature fruit.

How to Build a Simple Deck

Materials and Tools:

circular saw
mitersaw
reciprocating saw
drillimpact
wrench level and measuring tape
post hole digger and shovel
shims
string line
pressure-treated 2x8x10 lumber
pressure-treated 2x10x10 lumber
pressure-treated 2x8x8 lumber
pressure-treated 4x4x8 lumber
composite decking2x8 joist hangers and nails
composite decking screws
3/8" lag bolts with washers3/8"
carriage bolts with nuts and washers
bundle furring strips for temp bracing
concrete mix
J-bolt-style
post anchors
adjustable post caps
flashing material

Before you begin, check local municipality to find out the required building codes for your area.

It's important to draw up a set of plans that takes all of your uses for the deck into consideration. To determine the amount of materials needed, multiply the length by the width of the deck, taking into account stairways and railings. Take these measurements to a home center, they will help you determine amount of materials and what size boards and posts you'll need based on your specific plans. Always add 10 percent to the final figure for waste.

Steps:

1. Cut away siding if necessary and install flashing to protect the siding on your house. Install it around the entire perimeter where the deck will meet the house. Bend 2 inches of the flashing at a 90-degree angle and cut out for doorways or window frames based on the width of the opening. Flashing must fit under doorway or window frames, The best way to work with flashing is to use tin snips or score it, then cut it. You may have to remove nails to be able to slide the flashing under the siding. Nail into place.

2. Start laying out your materials. Determine the placement of the joists on the ledger board, marking for one every 16 inches on center. It’s best to have the bolts that will attach the ledger to the house centered in between the where the joists will sit. Place a mark 8 inches in from each side of 16-inch marks. Don’t cut the ledger board to length yet, just in case you have to make adjustments.

3. To give the deck adequate support it is best to bolt the ledger through the house. If you have a basement or crawl space, try to attach the ledger all the way through to the inside. Predrill for the bolts from the inside. From the outside, hold the ledger board in place, just underneath the drill holes, measure and mark so the drill holes will line up correctly to sit in between where you marked for the joists. Adjust and cut the ledger board to the correct length. Bolt the ledger board to the house.

4. Mark the foundation with string line, then mark the footing and post locations.

5. Dig the footers. Local building codes require us to dig the holes 12” wide by 36” deep to go below our frost line. Check your local building codes to find out the size of your footings. Mix the concrete and pour into the hole. Allow the concrete to set for one week.

6. Once the concrete is set, secure post anchors and J-bolts to the concrete. Make sure the bolts are level and plumb. Install the posts, also making sure they are level and plumb. Cut the tops of the post to line up level with the bottom of the ledger.

7. To create the beam that will sit on top of the posts, cut a 2x10 to the length of the deck then cut another 2x10 three inches shorter than that length. Lay the two 2x10 together with the longer board overhanging the shorter by 1-1/2" on each side. Nail the boards together so you have a double-thick beam. Attach the adjustable post caps to the tops of the posts. Place the beam on top of the posts and secure.

8. Add side pieces to connect the ledger to the beam. Attach a side-rim joist hanger to the ledger opposite the 1-1/2" notch on the beam that you just made. Screw the side beams to the front beam and to the post, then to the ledger.

9. Install joist hangers on the ledger board and on the inner side of front beam making sure they are sitting directly across from one another and are at the same height

10. Mark and cut your joists to run from the ledger board to the front beams. Seat the joists into the hangers and fasten with nails. Check your level, square and plumb often. Add any required blocking for stability.


11. Start laying the decking boards. If using composite material, use the manufacturer’s recommended fasteners. If using lumber, remember to keep a gap between boards to allow for expansion and contraction. To keep the gaps uniform, insert a 10-penny nail into the gap, place the next decking board up against it and screw it into place. Insert two screws at every joist.

12. Finish laying the decking boards, running the ends wild. Line up a chalk line with the outer edge of the posts and pop a chalk line marking a 1-1/2" overhang. Repeat on the other side of the deck. Then saw along the chalk line.

13. For the railing, measure and notch out a support posts that will attach to the side of the deck. Bolt the posts to the outer joists at every corner and at least every 6 feet. Cut the rails to size. Attach the balusters to the top and bottom rails. Insert the rail section in between the post.

How to Install a Storm Door From a Kit

Step 1: Measure the Opening and Check the Door Jamb


Start by measuring the opening to determine the proper size door to buy. While you're measuring, make sure the doorjamb and surrounding trim are solid, level and plumb. Storm doors can be installed to open to the left or to the right. You'll find it more convenient to install your storm door so that the handle is on the same side as the handle on the door behind the storm door.

Step 2: Cut the Hinge Frame and Remove the Glass

Mark the hinge frame at a length 1/8" less than that of the doorframe opening. With the hacksaw, cut the hinge frame to size. The glass makes up a considerable percentage of the weight of the door. Remove the glass from the storm door before installing it to make the process easier.

Step 3: Attach the Hinge Frame and Hinges

Screw two screws in the middle of the hinge frame into the jambs to hold the door in place.
Attach jamb screws at each of the hinges. Check the fit by opening and closing the door. Finish securing the drip cap by screwing it to the jamb.

Step 4: Measure and Cut the Frame

Measure the latch side of the doorframe and cut the frame 1/8" smaller than the measurement.

Step 5: Add the Rubber Sweeps

Remove the expander sweep from the door . Slide the rubber sweeps into the channels in the bottom of the door Crimp the ends of the channels to hold the sweeps in place. Trim excess sweep material, allowing a 1/8" overhang on the sides. Reattach the expander, with the screw side facing in

Step 6: Install the Doorknob

Your storm door may include a template, which will help you determine where to drill your holes for the door hardware Drill the holes for your doorknob and lock, line up the knob and lock, and insert them into the holes beginning with the exterior pieces. Then insert the interior pieces, and screw them into place.

Deadbolt locks are sometimes provided with new storm doors. These locks are installed in the same way as standard doorknobs

Step 7: Attach the Striker Plate and Stop Washer

Attach the striker plate and slide the stop washer into the closer.

Step 8: Assemble the Closer Unit

Assemble the entire closer unit with brackets on each end of the closer. Hold the closer level at the height recommended by the manufacturer and mark the bracket location on the door and doorjamb. Secure the closer to the door and doorjamb with screws.

How to Install a Ceramic Tile Floor

Step 1: Take Measurements of the Room


Begin by taking measurements of the room.

Step 2: Cut the Cement Board

Use those measurements to cut the cement board to size. This material is hard, but not too difficult to cut through. Use a razor knife to score one side, then turn the board over to finish the cut. Use caution when cutting to avoid pulling the mesh off the board.

Step 3: Lay Out the Pieces

Once all the pieces are cut, lay them out on the floor to make sure it's a snug fit.

Step 4: Secure the Cement Board

Secure the cement board to the floor using a screw-gun or cordless drill with screwdriver attachment. Use special cement-board screws, and place them every 6 to 8 inches.

Tip: You can start the screws in the cement board by tapping the tip in with a hammer. Then use the screw gun to set the screws fully.

Step 5: Mark the Center of the Room

With the cement board in place, measure to find the center of the room. Mark it by snapping two chalk lines that intersect at the room's center point.

Step 6: Lay Out the Tile

The patterned tile comes in sheets that are about 1-foot square. The individual tiles are attached on the underside with rubber "dots." The dots serve two purposes: they hold the tiles together in the patterned sheets and also act as spacers to create even grout lines. The rubber dots are easy to cut through when it's necessary to separate tiles.
Lay out the tile using as many full sheets as possible.

Step 7: Spread the Adhesive

Work in small sections, lifting out the tiles and spreading the adhesive. Spread the adhesive smoothly and evenly with a square-notched trowel. You'll want the adhesive to be about as thick as the tiles you're working with.
Lay the center section first, then you can tackle the tricky cuts around the edges of the room. Spread as much adhesive as possible before it dries. To determine how quickly the adhesive dries, check the open time on the product container.

Step 8: Set the Sheet of Tiles in Place

Set the first sheet of tiles into place and press it firmly into the adhesive. For the second sheet, remember to line up the pattern and check the spacing and then set it into place.

Step 9: Cover the Center of the Floor

Work around the room until the entire center of the floor is covered.

Step 10: Cover the Perimeter of the Room

For the perimeter of the room, trim full sheets to fit. We started at the door and worked our way around, measuring and cutting tiles and sheets as necessary to fill the area.

Step 11: Cut the Tile

The easiest way to cut tile is with a wet saw. It uses with water to keep the blade from getting too hot as it makes the cuts. Set the length wanted and guide the tile through the blade. Rent a wet saw for this project from a local rental center. Just remember to get safety gear and follow proper safety precautions as well.

Step 12: Follow These Tips

To cut a tile sheet, flip it over and use a utility knife to cut the rubber dots, then pop out the piece. This technique is handy to cut out a piece of tile to fit around the toilet or any plumbing pipes (Image 1).

If you have any small cuts buy a pair of tile nippers. The key to working with these is to be patient and cut off a little bit at a time (Image 2).

When mixing grout make sure it is creamy and easy to spread. Using the tile sheets, put grout onto the tiles then spread it with a rubber grout float.

 Let it set for about 20 minutes then wipe the tiles with a damp sponge. Once the grout has hardened, wipe off the haze and buff the tiles with a dry cloth (Image 3).

Make sure to seal the grout to help keep it clean. For new grout, wait a week to 10 days then apply a silicone sealer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the sealer product selected.

Pattern tile now comes in pre-joined, grout-ready sheets that makes installation easy.

Adding ceramic tile to a home is somewhat time-consuming, but once it's done, you're likely to be pleased with the final results.