Growing Citrus Trees

Regardless of whether your climate is tropical or wintry, learn how to grow your own citrus trees at home.

Citrus plants offer a wide array of juicy fruit, including oranges, lemons and grapefruits. You can grow your own right at home, even if you live in a colder climate. Here are some helpful tips for growing these tasty trees.


Freeze Protection

All citrus fruits are warm-weather plants that need protection from frost in cold-winter areas. If frost is predicted, move them inside if you live in a climate with prolonged cold temperatures and freezes. In milder climates further south, protect citrus trees from frost by using a floating row cover made from light landscape fabric. You can also use a bedsheet, piece of burlap or even newspaper. Provide some sort of support to prevent the covering from resting directly on the leaves, or they may freeze to the cover and become damaged in spite of your efforts. For small trees, an inverted tomato cage works well for support. For larger trees, use bamboo stakes. Use bricks to keep the wind from blowing away the covers.

Feeding Citrus Trees

Use a fertilizer formulated especially for citrus, as these plants have special requirements and prefer nitrogen and phosphorus. Follow the directions on the label exactly. If you live in a frost-prone area, fertilize after the last spring frost and stop fertilizing altogether by late summer. In rainy areas nutrients leach out of soil more quickly, so frequent smaller feedings are appropriate. Citrus plants may drop flowers if they're getting excess nitrogen.

Citrus Tree Maintenance

Citrus trees require a rich, fast-draining soil. Keep the soil moist but not wet at all times. Use a three-inch layer of mulch to cover the soil surface to prevent moisture loss. If your plants have yellow leaves, check for scale insects, which look like bumps on the stems and scrape off easily with your fingernail. If you find scale, use an insecticidal soap for control.

Growing Citrus in Containers

If you'd like to grow citrus trees but live in an area where they won't overwinter, why not grow them in pots? You can bring them indoors when it's cold and move them outside during warmer temperatures. To grow a citrus plant in a pot, choose a dwarf variety. Place a layer of rich, fast-draining potting soil in the bottom of the pot. Set the tree in place, and check the top of the root ball for correct planting depth. The top of the root ball should be two to three inches below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with potting soil, firming gently. Apply a light layer of soil on top of the root ball. Move the potted tree to a location in the warmest, sunniest part of the garden, and water well. At the threat of frost, move the pot to a warm, sunny location indoors.

How to Build a Garden Storage Bench

Step 1: Create Two Sides

Use a circular saw to cut four 2x6 boards to lengths of 16 inches. Cut two 2x4 boards to lengths of 16 inches. Cut four pieces of 4x4 to lengths of 14 inches. To form each side, sandwich one of the 2x4 boards between two of the 2x6 boards. Position the 4x4 posts at both ends, laying them perpendicular to the boards. Secure with 3-inch galvanized deck screws.

Step 2: Create the Front and the Back

Use a circular saw to cut four 2x6 boards to lengths of 5 feet. Cut two 2x4 boards to lengths of 5 feet. Arrange the boards in the same fashion as with the sides, by sandwiching the 2x4 boards between the 2x6 boards. Attach the boards with 3-inch galvanized deck screws to the 4x4 posts on the side panels.

Step 3: Create the Seat

Use a circular saw to cut three 2x6 boards to lengths of 5 feet-6 inches. The seat will extend over the sides by a few inches. Cut two 2x6 boards to lengths of 10 inches. These are used to hold the seat boards together. Lay the boards side by side lengthwise. Position the 10-inch cleats across the boards near the ends. Be sure to center them so they fit inside the bench box. Secure with 3-inch galvanized deck screws.

Use Annuals to Add Garden Color

Annuals can add a burst of color to your garden wherever you need it -- whether your garden is an extensive country plot or a set of containers on a city balcony.

Tuberous begonias are tender perennials typically grown as annuals. The upright forms make wonderful bedding plants; the pendulous ones look magnificent in hanging pots. The tubers should be planted in spring in rich soil or potting medium, with the concave side up and just the bottom half of the tuber buried. Once growth begins, apply 22-14-14 fertilizer every three weeks until flower buds begin to form. At that time, switch to 0-10-10 fertilizer, applied on the same schedule. Pick off flowers as they fade. When the plants begin to turn yellow in fall, withhold water. When the tops are completely dry, dig the tubers from the soil, and remove the tops. Dry them in the sun for a few days, then dust the tubers with sulfur powder or another fungicide to prevent rot. Store in paper containers in a cool, dry, dark place until planting time in spring.

Semperflorens begonias (also called wax begonias and fibrous begonias) are excellent bedding plants grown as annuals. In mild climates they may be overwintered. These free-flowering plants require little or no deadheading. Grow them in partial shade or indirect bright light, and provide regular doses of fertilizer.

Impatiens walleriana (busy Lizzie), a subshrubby perennial usually grown as an annual, requires filtered light or shade and a fast-draining soil rich in organic matter. If you plant from nursery six-packs, loosen the root ball gently, then place each plant in fresh potting soil, making sure you don't bury the crown of the plant. Water well after planting, then wait for the top 2" of soil to dry before watering again. Apply no fertilizer until plants begin to grow, then fertilize every two weeks with 0-10-10. Impatiens make good container or bedding plants.

New Guinea impatiens, a specific group of hybrids, are prized for their often dramatic foliage and bright flowers. They may be grown in sunny spots, unlike Impatiens walleriana.

Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) are short-lived perennials usually grown as annuals. They require full sun and well-drained soil. In mild-winter areas snapdragons may be grown as a winter annual. Snapdragons are susceptible to rust, a fungus disease. To help prevent the disease, avoid overhead watering.

Most Pelargoniums, or geraniums, are perennials grown as annuals in cold-winter climates. Most prefer full sun, but in hot climates afternoon shade is appreciated. Keep plants on the dry side. Pelargoniums perform best in areas with warm, dry days and cool nights. They may be grown outdoors year-round in mild California climates. Elsewhere they're popular bedding, container or indoor plants. Move plants indoors before cold weather begins, or take cuttings for next year. For best results indoors, set near a sunny window. Pelargoniums require rich, fast-draining soil and frequent pinching back to keep plants bushy. They are subject to infestation of white fly, spider mites and geranium bud worm. Fertilize during active growth to increase flower production.

Marigolds (Tagetes) are easy, dependable annuals that require full sun and well-drained soil. Many types are available, ranging in size from a few inches to a few feet in height. Marigolds come in white, yellow, red, orange and combinations of those colors. Many believe that marigolds help repel insect pests, so they're often planted in and around vegetable patches.

Scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) is a perennial typically grown as an annual. Red cultivars should be grown in full sun; pastel varieties need a little shade. Keep plants deadheaded for continuous summer bloom.

Top 10 Rules for Growing Veggies and Fruits

Find the sun. Most vegetables want six hours of direct sun a day — and more if they can get it. Exceptions include lettuce and radishes, which can get by with less.

Start small. If you're beginning your first garden, help yourself avoid the feeling of being overwhelmed with weeding and general maintenance. You can grow a surprising amount of food in a bed just 10-foot square.

Build up your soil. The foundation of a healthy, productive garden is a rich, well-draining, crumbly soil that has good tilth. Liberally add organic matter such as finished compost, bagged humus and straw.



Time your crops. Soil temperatures matter as much as air temperature when you're planting. Even peas, which are spring crops that are resistant to light frost once they're growing, won't germinate when the soil is below 39 degrees.

Be ready to supply cover if a late frost hits. Here, early-spring veggies grow under plastic.

Mulch, mulch, mulch. You wouldn't think twice about mulching your ornamental beds, so do the same with your veggie and fruit plantings. Keeping a layer of organic mulch over this radicchio's shallow roots helps conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Anticipate animals pests. To a raccoon these young corn plants mean dinner in the making, once the ears are fully developed. Talk to your neighbors and try to learn what pests to expect in your area. With the right kind of fencing, you can deter raccoons, rabbits, groundhogs, deer, dogs and other unwelcome visitors.

Mingle your plants. Too much of the same kind of plant in a grouping sends "eat here" messages to bad bugs. Here, squash, peppers and beans share the space.

Stay on top of the harvest. Pick produce when it's ready. Removing beans as they mature allows more of the plant's energy to go into supporting the later fruit that forms.

You don't have to hide your vegetable garden. Where you can, find a way to integrate your fruit and veggie garden with an area of your yard where you tend to hang out. When the crops are close at hand, you're much more likely to pluck off a bad bug or give a thirsty plant a drink.

How to Care for a New Tree

Step 1: Evaluate the Yard


Learn the mature size of the tree before you get started planting. It's one of the most common mistakes gardeners make, and the result is a tree that runs into power lines or that grows too big for its space and needs to be pruned every year. Too much pruning leads to stubs and stubs lead to rot and the rot leads to the death of some vertical limbs. Make sure you know the conditions your tree needs to grow so it can thrive. For example, a tree that needs a lot of moisture will not do well in a dry climate. Determine what you want the tree to do for your landscape. Different trees offer different things from the wow factor of cool bark to the shade from a standard maple. Choose between deciduous and evergreen. This is especially important if you are planting for privacy. You don't want to be surprised when your tree selection turns barren each winter. Different is good! Don't plant the same tree that everybody else in the neighborhood has. Not only is planting the same tree boring but it can also lead to trouble. For example, Dutch Elm Disease has wiped out trees in neighborhood after neighborhood over the last 50 years. When one tree gets sick they all get sick.

Step 2: Follow These Tree-Buying Guidelines

Trees will generally be the most expensive plants on your landscape shopping list. To get your money's worth, buy a good, healthy tree. Check out the leaves. You want a tree with healthy foliage. A few insect-damaged leaves is not a problem, and if you find a tree with some yellowing leaves, that's not a problem either as long as it's limited to about 10-percent of the foliage. Check the leaves for chlorosis, lack of vigor or a lack of new growth. Next, check the trunk of the tree. It should be straight. The bark should be unblemished. Cracks or soft spots can indicate frost or fungal damage. Check the rootball. If it's a balled and burlapped tree, dig down below the soil line to determine the depth it grew in the nursery and check for any girdling rope or wire that can "strangle" a tree. If it's in a container, shake the container gently to see if it's well-rooted.

Step 3: Plant the Tree

You can dig a hole yourself or use an auger. An auger is a machine that has a big motor and a big drill that goes into the ground. If you have a lot of trees or a big hole to dig, an auger, even though it cost $200 or so to rent for a day, is a real time saver. First, cut the container before putting the tree in the hole. Then, don't be afraid to roll the tree on its side to make planting easier. Then, gently lower the tree into the hole and watch to make sure it's centered and not crooked. If you can, get a couple people to help if you're planting a bigger tree. It's important to remember to grab the trunk not the limbs. Don't rush the process. Get the tree right before adding any more soil. After the tree is in the ground, make sure to build a berm around the tree. The raised area of soil directs rainwater down to the root system of the tree where it really needs it for the first year or so. A berm is a narrow ledge typically at the top or bottom of a slope — a mound of earth or sand. Finally, add mulch. Mulch conserves moisture in the soil. A new tree needs a lot of moisture in order to establish itself. A berm also keeps lawnmowers from rolling into the trunk of the tree and damaging that plant you just put in the ground.

Step 4: Water the Tree

There are several tools to help water a tree. A tree ring drips water right around the trunk of the tree, right down to the root ball. It's really easy to use with a water hose. If you don't have a water hose nearby, you might want to use something different this is called a tree gator. A tree gator is just a big bag that is filled full of water and drips down to the root system of the tree. It holds about 14 gallons of water. You fill it up every couple of days and it waters the tree very nicely.

How to Install Track Lighting in a Bathroom

Step 1: Install the Mounting Bracket and Track


Attach the mounting bracket to the ceiling, then snap the track into the bracket.

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Step 2: Measure, Then Install the Screw Anchors

Measure out from the wall to make sure both sides of the track are equal distance from the wall.

Mark the support holes with a pencil.

Drill holes on the marks with a 1/2" spade bit.

Install screw anchors into the holes.

Step 3: Install the Lights

Swing the track into position, then tap the anchors into place with a hammer and tighten.

Slide and snap the lights onto the track

How to Build a Raised Vegetable Bed

Step 1: Determine the Location


Most veggies require a lot of sunshine to produce a good harvest, so select a location for the raised bed that receives at least eight hours of direct sun. Choose a level, well-draining site and near a water source.

Step 2: Build the Frame

Place the 4 1" x 12" boards so that the ends meet to form a square box. Mark the locations of the four corners of the box, move aside the lumber and dig 1'-deep holes for the 4" x 4" posts. Place a post in each hole and backfill the soil. Firmly press the soil around each post to stabilize it. Then replace the 1" x 12" boards into the square box shape and attach them to the posts with screws or nails.

Step 3: Loosen the Soil

Using a shovel or spading fork, dig and turn the soil inside the frame to a depth of about 12." This depth is required, not because the vegetables' roots will grow that deeply, but to allow water from rainfall or irrigation to drain properly through the soil.

Step 4: Fill the Frame with Soil Amendments

Thoroughly mix the topsoil and soil amendments, such as humus, sand and manure, together inside the frame and rake it smooth. This mixture containing rich soil, nutrients and sand in a loose configuration provides good drainage. This is critical since good drainage produces healthy roots and, in turn, results in full-bodied plants and tasty veggies.

Step 5: Plant the Veggies

Select an assortment of cool- or warm-season veggies in the appropriate time of the year. Lay them out in the raised bed according to their spacing requirements. Use a trowel to dig a hole big enough to accommodate each rootball, place the plant carefully in the hole and backfill with soil. Water plants thoroughly. Place stakes around the veggies that need them. Add a two- to three-inch layer of mulch around the base of the plants.